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The Press and Post - Issue no. 23

Continental City Chic

Lets be honest, from the outside Callander Meadows is not the most inviting looking restaurant I have ever seen. I suppose that's because it's quite difficult at first glance to tell what sort of establishment it actually is. Well it is definitely worth suspending any misgivings and heading across the threshold for a meal.

What met me when I ventured forth, was a sup rising, but for me pleasingly continental atmosphere. The restaurant is a lovely cross between a French bistro and a Scottish country house. Tartan curtains and a roaring log fire provide the Scottish part and chalk boards with French quotations and a wall of bottles of wine add the Gallic influence. The international flavour is enhanced by the jazz and the knowledgeable, charming American waiter, Marc.

The food continues the Auld Alliance, with the best of Scottish produce being used to create dishes with a typically French, but modern, feel.

To start I had Prosciutto with Celeriac and Pear Salad and my husband had Ham and Pork Rillettes with Mixed Pickles and Chutney. My Prosciutto was delicious. The Celeriac and Pear salad was a bit like a coleslaw, as it was served in mayonnaise, and worked really well with the cold meat.My husbands starter, although enjoyable, wasn't quite such a success.We visit France often and both adore rillettes. This rillette was not what we were expecting, which is not to say it wasn't good, and the chutney was delicious. For the uninitiated rillettes is a cross between a potted meat and a course pate. The one at the Meadows is cooked with white wine and chicken stock to give added flavour, but it changes the texture, which is perhaps what suprised us.

For main courses we had Paupiettes of Sole with Braised Fennel and Veronique Sauce and pan fried Fillet Steak with Horseradish Mash, Red Onion Marmalade, and Red Wine Sauce.

Talk about melt in the mouth! The steak was just fab - and when my hubbie ordered a blue steak (very rare) he actually got one! The combination of the heat from the mash, the sweetness of the marmalade and the crunchiness of the straw potatoes made for a gorgeous mix of tastes and textures. But despite the richness of the dish it had a surprisingly light touch.

My sole was also lovely. Ever thought of having grapes with fish? Perhaps not but that is what you get with a Veronique sauce and the touch of sweetness is a very nice addition to the fish.

Our meals were served with Gratin Dauphinoise (a potato, cream, garlic and cheese dish) and a selection of fresh veg. Again Gratin Dauphinoise is one of our favourites, but it is rare to find it done properly. The Gratin Dauphinoise is the best one I've had - apart from my mum's!

Next dessert. What can I say about the desserts at the Meadows? The choice on the menu consisited of Steamed Cranberry and Date Sponge with Mulled Red Wine Sauce, Spiced Apple Pie with Custard, Frozen Dark Chocolate Mousse, with Baileys Cream Quenelles, Warm Rice Pudding with Plum Compote and Baked Hazelnut and Vanilla Cheesecake with Orange Syrup. Sound fantastic? Well it was and the best bit of all is that they have a dessert called the Wave - which is a plate with a portion of each dessert on it! Hedonism on a plate was my hubbies description.

You may be wondering what the cost of this feast was? Around £20 per head is the answer. Add in wine, which is available from around £10 per bottle and you could have a very good meal for two for £50. Bargain! I'll definitely be back and I would recommend you to give it a go. Christmas Eve could be the ideal opportunity to treat a loved one with the Meadows putting on a six course gala dinner for £32.50

If you want to try the culinary delights at the Meadows for yourself, then between Dec 10 and Jan 10 the restaurant will be open every night from 6.30 - 9.30 PM ( apart from Christmas day and Boxing day)
Lunches are good value too with a two course meal costing just £6.95. Lunch is served from 12.30 - 2.30 PM daily.

Nick and Sussanah Parkes, who own the Meadows are Gleneagles trained, and it shows. The nice thing is that at Callander Meadows you can get Gleneagles type food without paying Gleneagles type prices! Give it a go.

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